The city’s outstanding taqueria, Sonora, leaves its London Fields home from September
, with pollo asado as its main dish, built on the bedrock of Sonoran flour tortillas fortified with either pork, goose, or vegetable fat., with a focus on the north Mexico region’s slow-cooked beef staples of barbacoa and carne con chile, and their tortilla packs assumed the status of hyped sneaker drops. Having delivered hand-mixed, hand-rolled, and hand-pressed tortillas across the city in the throes of lockdown,, they had made and sold around 32,000 gossamer-thin, translucent tortillas.
Demand then necessitated a dedicated tortilleria production space, and Salazar de la Rocha was able to add a grill in Netil Market to cook carne asada —Sonoran taco filling. Breakfast taco specials, and with them elongated hours, soon followed. Sonora is, and was, by all measure, a titanic success, and is now one of the city’s most brilliant and most keenly followed restaurants.
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