Our review of Dovetail, a new 'California-inspired' restaurant in Vancouver's Yaletown neighbourhood. The butter beef tataki is a standout.
Dovetail opened in Yaletown late last year, introducing itself as a “California-inspired” restaurant. I remember struggling to interpret that—what exactly is Californian food? My first thought was some kind of avocado-and-chicken burger situation. Maybe smoothies à la la Erewhon smothered in creamy vodka sauce.
The surprising star of the meal was the butter beef tataki. It felt a bit like I was cheating on Phnom Penh, the Cambodian/Vietnamese restaurant that has heldin this town for years. I’m not going to compare the two—they’re quite different dishes, and I’m not one to pit two strong, independent beefs against each other. Not in 2024.But Dovetail’s butter beef tataki was really spectacular.
No matter how you classify a restaurant, you’re going to get naysayers arguing with the categorization (believe me, I know—by the way, have youA New Hong Kong-Style Cafe, Ho Yuen, Opens in South Van Tomorrow