Even if you’ve never had the pleasure of eating in an Automat, Lisa Hurwitz’s delightful documentary brings the experience to life
The first Horn & Hardart restaurant opened in Philadelphia in 1888. Founders Joseph Horn and Frank Hardart got started with a small lunchroom featuring a single counter and 15 stools; one of their goals was to introduce New Orleans-style coffee to Philadelphia. The lunchroom, not to mention the coffee, was a hit, but the idea of “automating” came a little later, in 1902.
Everyone—Black or white, rich or poor—was welcome at Horn & Hardart, as Hurwitz’s subjects attest. They include Colin Powell, who reflects on being a kid from the Bronx who loved making field trips to the Automats in Manhattan, where the food was affordable but served in an elegant setting, with high ceilings, shiny floors, and polished marble tables.
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