'In all of the years of thinking I was perfectly happy to drink alone, I hadn’t appreciated that this scenario was a complete novelty.' Wine writer alicefeiring explores the allure and anxiety of drinking alone in quarantine
Photo: Fine Art Images/Heritage Images via Getty Images When the sun goes down, and the streets of New York are hauntingly, terrifyingly silent, I find myself resisting the persistent whisper — “Time for a drink” — that often comes far too early. By my self-made regulations, I pull out the corkscrew only when powering down my computer for the day; this can be late, and I may also be hungry. As my soup is simmering, I survey the bottle options. There is plenty to choose from.
Given my own response, wineshops are indeed essential businesses. I am not surprised that Nielsen reports U.S. sales of alcoholic beverages are skyrocketing and that wine sales are up 66 percent over the same time the previous year. When drinking with others , my game plan is to choose wines that can oil the joints of conversation, wit, gossip, and sometimes argument. But COVID-19 requires more proletarian options. For our quarantine, I selected a broad spectrum that could cover all needs and moods, but nothing fancy. However, I hadn’t foreseen one particular glitch in my drinking plans: My boyfriend decided to decamp and shelter in his own home a few miles north.
Yet over these weeks, something has gone screwy. Nothing tastes as it should; the wines are too tannic, too fruity, too metallic. I’d open another bottle and another. Looking for the desired deliciousness, I am like a mathematician chewing over a singular problem, trying to come up with the right answer. I knew that anosmia, an inability to taste or smell, a wine writer’s nightmare, is one of COVID’s first symptoms. I panicked.
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