Early in the evening, ROW DTLA has the gloomy air of a post-apocalyptic city on the mend.
Most of the shops and offices inside the vast complex of redeveloped, century-old warehouse spaces have closed by 6 p.m.; a couple of storefronts, currently under renovation, are boarded up with plywood. Even the 10-story, 4,000-space parking structure squeezed in between Bay and Center streets is unnaturally empty and quiet.
If there’s a softer side to ROW DTLA, a well-lighted spot where there always seems to be a hearth going, it’s the Manufactory, the 44,000-square-foot mega-complex that opened early this year on Dock Street. The complex, which houses two restaurants, a bakery, coffee roastery, a walk-up window and a gourmet market, is the long-awaited first collaboration between chefs Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery and Chris Bianco of Phoenix’s Pizzeria Bianco.
Past the bakery, you cross the raised sidewalk patio that leads into Tartine Bianco, the casual, all-day restaurant that debuted in early February. Inside, the space has all the raw utilitarian qualities that have made ROW DTLA appealing to entrepreneurs and consumers alike — a wide open floor plan; lofty, unfinished ceilings; an overflow of natural light.
At dinner time, the thing you see on almost every table is the bread plate — a thick hunk of Tartine’s country loaf, a wedge of long-fermented sesame bread and some tender oat porridge sourdough, paired with things like tangy eggplant dip; a creamy butter bean hummus; and a sublime bowl of buttery, peppery warm ricotta. At Tartine Bianco, the bread plate is perhaps the whole point of dinner.
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