The Middle East has become a territory of prized interest for luxury Western labels. In November 2021, Dior\u2019s roving retrospective \u2018Designer of Dreams\u2019 exhibition opened in Qatar\u2019s capital Doha, the first show inside the design and cultural hub M7. The same week that month, Valentino presented its debut 15-piece Haute...
have touched down in Dubai to present celebrity-studded runway shows. Last week, Boss relocated its Milan Fashion Week show, in favour of a see-now-buy-now show in the desert surrounding the skyscraper-lined city.
For Italy-based label Taller Marmo – known for its lighter-than-air satin kaftans and asymmetric gowns, that ripple with fringes and ostrich feathers, attracting modest and maximalist dressers alike – its Euro-UEA evolution took place in reverse. Back in 2012, the brand’s two founders, Argentine Yago Goicoechea and Italian Riccardo Audisio, dropped out of the Istituto Marangoni in Milan where they met, disillusioned with their academic studies and the frenetic cycle of the fashion system.
Taller Marmo relocated to Milan in 2016, a decision based on a desire to build its wholesale business. ‘We sold all our furniture,’ Goicoechea laughs. ‘Within two weeks of our decision we were back in Italy.’ The label now operates with a small team, is stocked by luxury retailers including Harrods, Matchesfashion, Browns, Luisaviaroma, and in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, has seen a staggering eight-fold increase in sales.
The brand’s success aligns with its focus on key pieces that are tweaked or reinterpreted each season – belted, open-back, draped or created in a new fabric or colourway – instead of indulging in endless clothing categories. ‘We consider ourselves more dressmakers than fashion designers,’ Goicoechea says. ‘We don’t see ourselves that related to the industry itself. We don’t just want to make the hottest or trendiest thing.’ §
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