Tacos Árabes Are the Answer to All Your Bad-Tortilla Woes

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Tacos Árabes Are the Answer to All Your Bad-Tortilla Woes
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A Pueblan specialty with Middle Eastern influence means all the workings of a taco stuffed in a pita-bread wrapper. Who's hungry?

It didn't take long, in a country already enamored of wrapping meats and other savories in a soft corn tortilla, for the taco and the shawarma traditions to collide. The lamb quickly became pork, and the classic Middle Eastern yogurt sauces were joined spicy Mexican chipotle sauce. The marinade for the meat, meanwhile, remained fairly similar to the Levantine original, heavy with cumin, oregano, and onions.

The beauty of the pita, though, aside from the fact that it maintains a clear link to the dish's Middle Eastern origins, is that it's one of the greatest solutions to the crappy-tortilla problem that plagues so many of us outside of Mexico. I, for instance, live in Jackson Heights, Queens, a neighborhood with a rock-solid Mexican population and dozens of Mexican restaurants and grocers. And yet I can't find a single damned good tortilla anywhere.

Instead of trying to assemble some kind of mini spit for the meat, Kenji had the brilliant idea to layer it into a loaf pan instead. Alternating the seasoned pork with strips of bacon adds extra fat , along with a smoky flavor that simulates the charcoal-roasted flavor of true spit-roasted meat.

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