A growing number of winemakers are creating complex, rich examples of this sometimes misunderstood grape
The Syrah grape produces some of the world’s most beautiful, satisfying wines. The fruit is dark and flavorful, and, when well-made, the wines are layered with earthy, meaty, and spicy complexity.
For Matt Dees, winemaker at Jonata in Santa Barbara County’s Ballard Canyon and at The Hilt in Santa Rita Hills along the coast, Syrah is among the “holy trinity” of grapes—alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—that express terroir, or a sense of place, encompassing soil, climate, and topography. The Jonata Syrah comes from sandy soil about 30 miles inland from the coast, where it experiences sunny hot days and cold nights, while The Hilt is less than 10 miles away from the freezing-cold ocean. These wildly different environments produce, from the same grape, wildly different, wonderful wines.
Today, more wineries across California—from Sonoma to Santa Barbara in the South Central Coast—are producing restrained, complex Syrah-driven wines that balance the grape’s range of fruity to savory elements. “Syrah is clearly the new red darling” in the state, says David Parker, CEO and owner of Benchmark Wine Group in Napa Valley.Colgin is among Napa Valley’s most collectible producers and is primarily known for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends.
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