.keeneTV reviews Sweetbitter Season 2, a mid-2000s time capsule of love, heartbreak, and white truffles.
, based on Stephanie Danler’s novel, was much maligned in its short first season. Some felt it was a standard coming-of-age in New York story that didn’t do enough to shake up the genre, or that it didn’t do the beloved book justice, or that it was too focused on the privilege of the fine dinning culture in which it resides.
In Season Two, Tess is no longer just the wide-eyed ingenue she started off as, but she is still naive and full of wonder at things her jaded co-workers find to be pedestrian. The restaurant’s manager, Howard , tells her that he appreciates her curiosity, and the camera does often find itself lingering on Tess looking at people and things with a fixated wonder as she takes everything in.
That is because, as viewers of the first season will know, Tess believes she’s really in love with moody bartender Jake , who has a complicated relationship with another co-worker, Simone . The show backs away somewhat from their twisted mother/son or friend/lover dynamic until late in this eight-episode season , but it’s an ever-present tension that keeps Jake at a distance from Tess.
The biggest issue, though, is that Jake never makes himself much of a character worth fighting over. As far as TV bad boys go, he’s exceptionally dull. Selfish, mopey, impulsive and distant can work as long as there’s also charm and some kind of dynamic portrayal, but when compared to the complicated Howard and the personally conflicted Will, Jake does not measure up.
Where the show does a much better job is in its portrayal of the connections within the microcosm of the restaurant, one that completely runs the lives of those who are a part of it. It’s all funny, emotional, warm and quickly forgotten in turn. Throughout the new season, each character is faced with not only the challenge of what they want now and in their near future, but coming to terms with the fact that they may never get there.
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