Helmut Lang's Michael Colovos just launched 'Unified Unlimited,' a new jeans line made from—wait for it—stretch denim
, a line of great-smelling all-natural bath and body products, and Michael has just launched Unified Unlimited, a new jeans line made from—wait for it—stretch denim.
To be clear, Unified Unlimited is not another collection of skinny jeans. The label’s novelty comes from the way Colovos is cutting the stretch denim, which he currently sources in Turkey, with plans to eventually find a mill here in the States. There’s an adjustable side tab style and a drawstring waist pair, there’s a full-legged trouser shape, and, most tempting to me, there’s a pleat-front tapered jean that Colovos modeled after a beloved pair of baggy pants by Yohji Yamamoto.
“Nobody’s speaking to the newer generation, everything feels outdated,” Colovos said over a pile of new jeans in theoffice. “There’s a lot of people doing denim in fashion that I like,” he clarified, “but it’s really expensive and it’s usually a small portion of what they have to offer.” Unified Unlimited, he explained, has been designed with an emphasis on “experimentation and play.” Not only are the silhouettes outside the norm of most denim labels, but the brand philosophy is unique, too.
As for the stretch, it’s more than just a matter of what comes around, goes around. Most of us got accustomed to the comfort of sweatpants and loungewear during the long months of lockdown. Colovos, for his part, lost his enthusiasm for the breaking-in period that rigid, unrinsed jeans require. That’s saying a lot for a one-time jeans snob who used to only buy and wear ring spun 14 ounce denim. “I never would’ve worked with stretch denim before, mostly because of the way it looks.
Colovos also scores points for mindful design; the jeans are made from 30% recycled cotton, and the stretch element is partially made from recycled polyester. “Denim changes over time and it becomes better with age. These jeans will outlive us,” said Colovos, who likes the idea of young people of the future shopping for his Unified Unlimited jeans the way they do today for Levi’s from the 1950s. There’s a good chance they will. Colovos’s most discerning customer is his 17-year-old son Max.
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