The superlative scones at Sqirl restaurant are a master class in balancing extravagance and simplicity.
Jessica Koslow’s popular all-day spot Sqirl will temporarily become a relief center for restaurant workers, thinking they’re the same. While a biscuit can be super buttery and flaky-tender, scones are meant to be sweeter, drier and crumblier — think of them as a cross between a biscuit and a shortbread cookie — since they’re supposed to be split and served with jam and butter or clotted cream, as the Brits do.
At Sqirl, however, Flores has restored the pastry’s traditionally understated appeal and merged it with SoCal seasonal abundance. The scones — created by original pastry chef Meadow Ramsey, passed down to Sasha Piligian and now on to Flores — are a master class in balancing extravagance and simplicity.
Flores came to her version of the recipe after tinkering with the original. “I worked with a lot of what [Piligian] already was doing,” said Flores. “I started subbing things out, trying out different dairy, taking away sugar and adding honey. I wanted them to be nutty but with some moisture inside — and still, outside, be rough as a scone.”
Scott Barry, Koslow’s business partner at Sqirl, eats a scone every day, according to Flores, and would give her feedback.“One day he was like, ‘This is it!’” Flores said. “I thought he was joking just to give me relief, but he immediately texted Jessica.”dry, the trick Flores has figured out is balancing this defining scone characteristic with just enough moisture from fruit to make it worth the choking hazard.
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