Fans of chef Chinchakriya Un’s Cambodian cooking can get a taste of her approach with this recipe for trey m’pill, a grilled tamarind fish
Chinchakriya Un holds handfuls of herbs over an inflatable kiddie pool, the water from a garden hose washing dirt and sand off the lemon balm, fish mint, cilantro, sawtooth coriander, and water celery she’s picked from her mother’s vast garden in Spartanburg,
New York has few outlets for Cambodian cooking, but it’s more than Un’s food that attracts a beloved following in this city. It’s her trips away from Un records each step as Kim cooks, making sure she understands what goes into making a dish before returning to Brooklyn, where she often takes her inspiration in a new direction. Recipes are often reshaped by the difficulty of finding fresh herbs like ngo om, rau ram, sdao, curry leaves, and shiso in New York. “I’m like, ‘Okay, I have these techniques, how do I disrupt things?’” she says of bringing Kim’s reimagined dishes to her pop-up menus.
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