By celebrating local traditions—and some of the world’s steepest vineyards—winemakers uncork more sustainable trips in this over touristed Italian region.
, entail a trek up from the port to their vineyard. This gives visitors a feel for the hard labor required to make wine in a region where rugged terrain prevents machine harvesting and, in most places, access by road.Winemakers face steep challenges in the Cinque Terre. “It takes about 2,000 hours a year to cultivate one hectare of grapes here,” says Giancarlo Gariglio of nonprofit Slow Wine Italia. “In Napa Valley, it takes about 250 hours.
Orlando Cevasco, owner of Cantina Litàn winery, rides a monorail to his vines near the village of Riomaggiore. Once he has harvested some grapes, he’ll use the contraption to ferry them to the road above.winery, harvests grapes in his vineyard above Vernazza.Depopulation threatens the whole region, Gariglio explained, because “winemakers are custodians of the[dry sandstone walls] that support farming terraces.
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