See every look from Simkhai's fall 2023 collection:
Looking toward global growth, Jonathan Simkhai and his company just went through an extensive rebranding. “Jonathan” has been removed from the brand name—to “make it easier to pronounce and easier to visualize… and I think it’s such a collaborative work; it’s not just me,” the designer explained. There’s also a new “S” logo, which was bedazzled on the three finale looks.
Simkhai isn’t the only the designer who is playing with deconstruction this season: this raw approach to design in some ways reflects the jagged edges of a world turned upside down by war and natural disasters, but it was a surprise to see it here. Softness and fluidity have long defined this brand, and this season’s collaboration with Wolford played into that seamlessly.
This was a deliberate choice that stemmed from Simkhai’s desire to try to stop the madness. “I feel like everything is upside down and there’s so much chaos and lots of bad news and just crazy things. A collection that feels grounded was really important to me,” he said. One of the ways he achieved that was putting pedal to the metal; there were a substantial number of moto looks in the fall collection. Also, the majority of models wore heavy boots.
They were likely attracted to the finale looks, or the metallic knits with a deliberate crinkle that made them look a bit disorderly, and were as such an extension of the deconstructed tailoring. Related to those knits were dresses of lace, and others of sequins, whose patterns followed the lines of the crystals conjured by the artist George Harvey, which were also present as prints in the collection.
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