Oysters grow slowly in the cold Atlantic waters but Greg Mercer learns that the flavour is unbeatable
Philip Docker leans over the bow of his wooden rowboat and carefully plucks an oyster from the cool, brackish water. It’s midafternoon on Big Island, a timeless speck of land on Nova Scotia’s north shore where it somehow feels hard to remember what decade it is.
“I prefer them naked. It took me four years to grow this, I’m not covering it up with anything,” said Docker, whose family has been harvesting oysters in these waters since 1918.Philip Docker, owner of ShanDaph Oysters on Big Island, N.S., harvests oysters from the same estuary his family has farmed since 1918.with a simple plan – eat as many oysters as we could and learn about how these hard-shelled delicacies are grown.
“This is the birthplace of oyster farming in Nova Scotia,” says Purdy, sweeping his arm toward a shellfish harvester floating on a barge nearby. “This harbour is perfectly suited for growing oysters.” Sober Island’s oysters grow in brackish water, where the salty, cold North Atlantic mixes with a freshwater estuary, creating a buttery, fatty oyster that has less salinity than other local versions. They’re worth the drive.His Halifax restaurant gets 400 delivered fresh every day, from farms around Atlantic Canada. He prefers slower-growing oysters, which often have a saltier brine or what he calls that “ocean punch in your mouth.
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