As our social media feeds light up with foodies having exquisite meals, the public is left wondering what is truly fantastic and what is funded fiction.
Legendary New York magazine food critic Gael Greene was so protective of her public identity that her face remained a hatted, guarded secret for decades. Reviewing Big Apple food haunts for that publication from 1968 to 2008, she hailed from the golden age of dining sleuths who worked for outlets that prized editorial integrity above all else. For this critical and highly feared elite, even the whiff of a freebie meal could ruin a reputation or be grounds for dismissal.
Contrasted with the sometimes harsh reviews found in publications such as New York or the Washington Post, restaurant coverage in monthly lifestyle magazines tends to be kinder, gentler. During my time at Town & Country magazine, where I helmed the “On the Town” column for nearly a decade, not once can I recall our giving an eatery a negative review.
Indeed, any establishment we reviewed — even if the story was but a paragraph — had to have cast a spell over the writer. Otherwise, it didn’t make the cut.
Dangling the carrot of gushing praise on Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, Facebook and in weekly newsletters and blogs, these facile foodies know how to reach their fans and are unafraid to ask for freebies in exchange. Some influencers even charge a fee for their coverage.
. Fawning footage of a bôite’s interior; boomerang sequences of frothy cocktails; and close-ups of spellbinding entrées and too-pretty-to-eat desserts can deliver a meaningful social-media boost. For the influencer’s legion of followers, these snatches of food porn are highly sharable and predictably covetable.
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