See Martine Rose’s “Urgent, Sexual” New Collection

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See Martine Rose’s “Urgent, Sexual” New Collection
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The show was heavy on latex and sleaze

put on her first in-person show in two years. Backdropped by long walls of black latex curtains, an array of eccentric models – their hair either dripping in grease, or coiffed and bleached in acrid colours – strutted down the runway while Jacob Miller’s reggae hitthumped overhead. “I wanted people to smell the latex, I wanted people to see the sweat on their bodies, I wanted people to feel the energy as they walked past,” Rose said backstage of her triumphant return to the runway.

The designer – best known for embracing and assimilating the south London rave and reggae subcultures she grew up around in the 90s – focused this time on the hasty, hurried methods of dress and undress involved in “urgent sexual encounters”. The show opened with a short, sharp soundtrack of heavy breathing, followed by a series of men’s and women’s looks that included frumpy office party attire, rave-ready tracksuits, and scuffed-up denim caps paired with bomber jackets and jeans.

In the past, Rose has shown in unconventional venues – a residential street in Chalk Farm, an indoor market in Seven Sisters – and this time was no different. “I’m so honoured to be doing this in Vauxhall, which is a really important, old community in London,” said Rose of the area, which has a rich history of gay nightlife.

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