A Nova Scotia couple has made international headlines as businesses like theirs cater to a growing appetite for hand-crafted salt
An hour and a half drive from Halifax, beyond a two-kilometre ribbon of sand, over a metal bridge and onto an island ringed with ice, the salt sorceresses wade into the frigid Atlantic. Onya Hogan-Finlay dips a bucket, filling it with seawater. She pours it through a filter to catch the microplastics and then, clambering and slipping over seaweed-covered rocks, hands it off to her spouse, Kim Kelly, in the back of their dark green Ford Ranger.
as they’ve branded themselves, have been written about in The New Yorker and Vogue, only adding to the local buzz about their venture, part of a nascent industry in rural coastal communities across the Atlantic region.“There’s no recipe for this process,” said Ms. Kelly. “All of us are making this up
Once it hits a level of supreme saltiness, the magic happens. Salt begins to crystalize, forming tiny floating diamond shapes, which clump together into confetti-sized pyramids. This March, the couple and their one year-round employee spent hours shovelling snow to harvest low lying juniper bushes. Mr. Burt burns the bushes to make juniper-smoked sea salt. It’s one of the various Newfoundland-inspired flavours they add to their sea salt, which is used by chefs all over the country, including Anthony Walsh at Bar Sofia in Halifax and the leading Canadian restaurant group, Oliver & Bonacini, with restaurants in Toronto, Calgary, Edmonton and Montreal.
Once Ms. Hogan-Finlay and Ms. Kelly have harvested water from the sea, the salt gets expelled from the water as it freezes, a process called brine rejection.
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