Rick Steves: Sauerkraut and oompah music rule in Italy's South Tirol

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Rick Steves: Sauerkraut and oompah music rule in Italy's South Tirol
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With strong Germanic culture in South Tirol, this is an ideal base for exploring the Dolomites in Italy.

The German-speaking Italian town of Castelrotto — called “Kastelruth” by its German-speaking residents — lies tucked away in the Dolomites, the Alps of northeastern Italy. It’s my favourite hideaway in “South Tirol,” a region of Italy that gives visitors a strong dash of Germanic culture.

During a trip through Italy, I enjoy a break from pizza and pasta. Wurst and sauerkraut are Tirolean clichés — more adventurous eaters seek out Speck, a raw, prosciutto-style ham smoked for five months, then thinly sliced and served as an antipasto or in sandwiches. Large dumplings — with bits of Speck, liver, spinach, or cheese — are often served in sauce, or with butter and cheese. For dessert, strudel is everywhere, filled with the region’s renowned apples.

The bells of Kastelruth are a big part of the town experience, ringing on the hour from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. While sleepy tourists wonder why they clang so early in the morning, locals — who grew up with the chimes — find them comforting. These days, the region is most famous for its contribution to the world of oompah music. The folk-singing group Kastelruther Spatzen — the ABBA of the Alps — is a gang of local boys who put Kastelruth on the map in the 1980s. They have a huge following here and throughout the German-speaking world.

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