Rick Steves: France's Loire the valley of a thousand chateaux

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Rick Steves: France's Loire the valley of a thousand chateaux
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The Loire Valley poses a challenge for its many visitors: How to choose among its castle thrills?

The Loire Valley, about two hours southwest of Paris, offers France’s greatest array of château experiences. Marvel at sumptuous interiors, cared for by noble families who’ve lived in them for centuries. Wander immaculately manicured geometric gardens, or follow the play of sunlight on a facade of a palace perched on a river island. View packs of carefully bred hounds yelping for red meat as they await their next hunt.

My main tip: Don’t go overboard on château-hopping. Two châteaux, possibly three, is the recommended daily dosage. Consider visiting the three châteaux I find most interesting: Chenonceau, Chambord, and Cheverny. These three can be visited in a day by car or minivan tour. The biggest château in the region, Chambord, is huge — six times the size of your average Loire palace, more like a city than a château. It’s surrounded by Europe’s largest enclosed forest park, a lush game preserve teeming with wild deer and boar. It began as a simple hunting lodge for bored blue bloods. But starting in 1518, François I — with the help of 1,800 workmen over 15 years — made a few modest additions to create his “weekend retreat.

Cheverny, a stately hunting palace, is one of the more lavishly furnished Loire châteaux. The construction of today’s château wrapped up in 1634 after a relatively short 30 years, resulting in a harmoniously unified architectural style. It’s been in the same family all along, and family pride shows in its flawless preservation and intimate feel. Cheverny was spared by the French Revolution, as the owners were popular then, as today, even among the poorer farmers.

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