Fashion’s dark prince showed a softer side at his misty show at the Palais de Tokyo.
, the designer’s Paris Fashion Week home. Rather than the celebratory tone you’d expect, however, fashion’s dark prince spoke of his conflicting thoughts about his effective homecoming, contemplating whether it should “be about humility and a lesson learned?” -- he wrote in the letter he issues with each collection -- “or carpe diem?”
Gauging by yesterday’s shows, which saw the iconic Seine-side location bathed in plumes of thick white fog out of which the models emerged -- the first being none other than-- and two cloaked figures scattering dried jasmine leaves down onto spectators below, it would seem that he erred on the side of the latter. For all the theatrics, though, this was also a collection that exhibited a softer, more sensuous approach to beauty than we’ve seen from the designer in quite some time.
The tough, hard-shouldered silhouettes of recent seasons returned, and the standout shoe of the collection was essentially an armour-like, thigh-high riff on a gladiator sandal. However, that toughness was quickly counterposed by the vintage glamour of gauzy mousseline column dresses that fluttered on the breeze like the surrounding mist and gradient dyed, shoulder-padded silk bombers with Madame Grès-like gathers down the front.
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