At Ipoh Kopitiam in Alhambra, savor Malaysian curries and noodle dishes as well as the country's famous white coffee.
hews closer to milk chocolate than pure cream. Its taste hints of chocolate too, in the way that lightly roasted coffee can, though a smooth, layered caramel flavor strongly shades most sips.
Slices of toast sandwiched with kaya is a classic snack served alongside coffee. Tang and his team make the kaya, stirring and simmering coconut milk, egg, sugar and a few fragrant pandan leaves into a spread that’s slightly thicker than a pourable dulce de leche. Pats of fresh, cold butter, which your teeth slice into with satisfaction, add an optional third dimension to the sandwich.
The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner; noon or night you’ll probably want to start with roti canai. The cooks aren’t making flatbreads from scratch — it’s a small kitchen — but the ones they’re sourcing appeal with their elastic, buttery flakiness. More important, Tang and his crew painstakingly pound and blend different pastes for each of their curries, and the roti comes with a vegetarian coconut-laced dipping sauce that’s at once sharp and mellow.
Curries show low-and-slow patience. I love the mulchy quality of the beef rendang, the way the chile hums through dense sauce, and how the minced shallots and lemongrass pierce through as both textures and flavors. Sometimes the hunks of meat arrive in small lobes, but it’s best when the batch has been cooked down so much that the beef is in shreds and you eat the dish partly with a fork and partly with a spoon — and the rest you mop up with roti.
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