Review: This is Lebanese food done right

Meat in several forms is the forte at Mona’s Kitchen.

Samke harra means “spicy fish” in Lebanese Arabic, though the dish — usually flavored with some variation of garlic, cilantro and nuts — rarely smolders with anything more than a flicker of cayenne. Originally a staple of Tripoli, Lebanon’s northern port city, it has been absorbed into regional cooking styles all over the country.

For my Lebanese friends, tabbouleh is a litmus test. Marjik’s measures up. Very little bulgur bulks out the parsley and tomato — just enough to create an occasional ripple of contrasting texture. The effect is of buoyancy and brightness. Habra nayyeh, kafta nayyeh and kibbeh nayyeh, all variations on classic Lebanese tartare-style dishes.

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