Review | New Popeyes, Burger King chicken sandwiches reinforce pecking order

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Review | New Popeyes, Burger King chicken sandwiches reinforce pecking order
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Review: New Popeyes, Burger King chicken sandwiches reinforce pecking order

Of this week’s new entrants, the Popeyes offering is the better of the pair. It’s a riff on its smash hit fried chicken sandwich — it has the same glossy brioche bun, pickles and mayo as the original, but the key difference is in the chicken patty itself: rather than being breaded, this one goes naked. Or nearly so — according to the company, it’s brined for 12 hours then dredged in a Cajun-spice blend.

As a fan of the Popeyes fried chicken sandwich, I had high hopes for its new cousin, and its good looks had me even more optimistic. The patty was reddish-brown from the spices, and crisp from what looked like a turn in the fryer. Biting into it confirmed my hunch — it was juicy on the outside, pleasantly salty from the brine, and the Cajun seasoning delivered a punch you might not expect to find from a mass-market sandwich.

Burger King’s “BK Italian Royal Crispy Chicken Sandwich,” by contrast, doesn’t feel like an innovation in the sandwich space as much as a retread. The chain, which is struggling to reinvent itself, had an Italian-style chicken sandwich on its menu for decades, but pulled it off and then relaunched it last year.

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