At seven-seat Hayato in downtown L.A., Brandon Hayato Go serves extraordinary multicourse meals inspired by Japan's kaiseki traditions.
Gorgeous, riveting plates keep coming. A trio of sashimi, including the sweetest Hokkaido uni. Grilled, or hot pot, filled perhaps with crab, nappa cabbage and shiitake mushrooms, or a few precious slices of Wagyu rib-eye swirling with bamboo shoots.By the last savory course — rice and fish served from a polished copper pot on a tray with pickles, miso soup and charcoal-roastedtea — the group can be almost silly from the exhilaration of an astounding meal.
His slumber particularly suffers on Fridays and Saturdays, when Go also assembles 16 exquisite lunchtime bento boxes each of those days, modeled in part after, the Japanese New Year foods. These also require an online reservation, and they are as equally difficult to score as dinner bookings. Persevere.
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