Review: ‘Clyde’s’ is a savory treat at Berkeley Rep — if only it dug a little deeper

Lynn Nottage’s clever comedy about a group of ex-cons trying to reset their lives while working at a sandwich shop plays in Berkeley through Feb. 26.

Salvation is a good sandwich in “Clyde’s.”

In this greasy spoon, food is a religious experience. Short-order cook Montrellous is the high priest, preaching the gospel of perfectly balanced ingredients while Clyde , the boss, is basically the devil, a Cruella de Vil-style villain complete with satanic cackle. When she aggressively fondles the booty of a new male employee, the action feels forced. While most of the characters here behave authentically based on their backstories, Clyde seems cartoonish and unmotivated.

Wilson Chin’s dingy neon-lit set evokes a fluorescent purgatory in which the minimum-wage workers are deliciously memorable.

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