Review: Ambrogio by Acquerello brings the taste of Michelin-starred Milanese restaurant to San Diego

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Review: Ambrogio by Acquerello brings the taste of Michelin-starred Milanese restaurant to San Diego
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The Milan-born owners of San Diego's Ambrogio15 pizzerias have partnered with famed Italian chefs for satellite project in La Jolla

, Ristorante Acquerello near Milan serves “modern” Italian cuisine, “although more than one word is needed to do justice to this restaurant.”

Like the original Acquerello, the La Jolla restaurant’s seven-course tasting menus and chef’s table dinners combine artful Italian gastronomy with influences of Korean, Japanese and Chinese cuisines. But at Ambrogio by Acquerello in La Jolla, the ingredients of California produce, local seafood, land proteins and the region’s less-formal, laid-back sensibility have been stirred into the mix.

Yet while the food and service at the new restaurant are Michelin-level, the atmosphere is unpretentious and relaxed. Most of the tables are outdoors and there’s no dress code. The Stravaganza Mediterranea course is a particular standout in both taste and creativity. Cubes of fresh-caught tuna and tempura-fried calamari are served on a bed of apple cider “pearls” that explode with flavor in your mouth. Years ago, only the wealthy in landlocked Milan could afford the luxury of fresh fish, so middle-class Milanese had to settle for fish preserved in vinegars. That bright acidic bite to the fish dish is now a taste most Milanese relish.

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