Review: The Silver Spring mainstay, opened in 1963, is the place to go for chicken soup that tastes like a hug.
Me? I’m all smiles. Chicken soup that tastes as if someone’s bubbe made it and a $24 bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé, grabbed from the deli’s cooler en route to the dining room in the rear, are a swell way to end a week, and a welcome change of pace. For the past few months, I’ve been eating almost exclusively in new restaurants ahead of my Spring Dining Guide, a celebration of what’s recently opened.
Parkway’s chicken soup — with or without a fluffy-if-undersalted matzoh ball — I know well. While I was working from home during the pandemic, my significant other knew that a takeout order from Parkway was pretty much all I needed to power me till showtime . Tender chunks or shreds of chicken packed the container of golden broth, gently herby and crammed with a fistful of sliced carrots, celery, onion and egg noodles. Every spoonful had the power of a hug.
The dinners, served starting at 4 p.m. every day, make me wish more such sources existed. Slices of turkey roasted in-house all but hide the onion-laced cornbread stuffing that supports them. Just like at Thanksgiving, the bounty comes with brown gravy and cranberry sauce. Diners select a side; lightly dressed coleslaw or creamy macaroni and cheese tend to round out my feast.
When I later talk to Gurewitz by phone, I’m startled by his candor. “We’re not trying to be top of the line, but we’re not the bottom, either,” he says. His aim at Parkway is consistency and value. The reliability is spurred by a head chef, Rene Santos, 52, who started 28 years ago.
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