The relatively new East Vancouver establishment operates throughout the day, starting with morning coffee and pastries.
Restaurants, like children, thrive with good parenting. You might say Collective Goods Bistro, of the three-child family Collective Hospitality group of restaurants, has that.
The place is newly renovated but has the feel of a lived-in, not-so-minimalist Shaker dining room. A couple of cafes, art gallery and the artisanal bakery, Flourist, also reside in this increasingly interesting, largely residential neighbourhood. Dinner menu starters are $15 to $21 and mains run from $28 to $46 and have the heart and soul of a classic French bistro with dishes such as Coquille St. Jacques, bouillabaisse and steak frites, but there’s some off-roading with items like Piri Piri Hen, an homage to the previous Portuguese restaurant, Casa Verde, which had a barbecued version.
I relished everything I ordered, starting with a gorgeous chicken liver mousse with fermented chamomile honey, preserved fruit and grilled sourdough. Chicken livers are cooked sous vide and blended with barely-there amounts of vanilla, orange, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. It’s a super light, creamy, ethereal mousse.
Come dessert time, a simple crème caramel with Curacao, candied orange and house-made vanilla pizzelle will hit the spot.I wondered if the cut of the two slices of duck breast would only accentuate toughness. No, it was beautifully cooked. It’s brined for two days, then seared to render fat, then cooked in the sous vide. For service, it’s finished in the pan with butter, thyme and red wine jus that took a long, slow three days to make.
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