Restaurant Review: Down Home and Meat Free at Cadence

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Restaurant Review: Down Home and Meat Free at Cadence
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Cadence channels the spirit of soul food using only plants (and Beyond Meat). Read plattypants's review

hese are trying times for stout, beefeating non-vegans like me. Expressions like “plant-based” have been on the lips of breathlessly trendy restaurant folk for years, of course. Lately, however, and especially in the strange new COVID era, the advances in this ever-expanding genre — a refuge, in ancient beefeating lore, for sprout-munching, lactose-intolerant commune dwellers and assorted other kooks — have been downright alarming.

Like those of other prominent New York restaurateurs in their early years , DeRossi’s little nest of restaurants occupy their own special terroir — in this case a multi-block section of the East Village — and they tend to exude the same practical, casually ornate, homespun look, as if you were dropping in to a semi-private dining club or neighborhood bar.

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