A chef and an opera\u002Dsinging farmer team up to open a farm restaurant in Maple Ridge
“We’re careful about unnatural environments. Our major philosophy is to meet the natural rhythms of the environment,” says Beveridge.e and chef friend Christopher Janowski had talked about it in “a distant future.”
The outdoor seating definitely isn’t L’Abattoir level, especially if you’re there on a cold, drizzly evening as I was. But in summer, fresh air is a squeeze of culinary magic. For the chef, it’s bliss, with fresh farm ingredients full of dazzle and life. Janowski made the puff pastry for a hot-smoked Columbia River steelhead trout tart — an example of what the small kitchen in a trailerThe fish, velvety and lightly smoked, sat atop the flakiest pastry ever, with crème fraiche, pickled shallots and horseradish. I loved it.Photo by Mia Stainsby, and mustard seed jus had been brined, dry roasted, rested, then finished on a charcoal hibachi — another winner.
He was disappointed I hadn’t ordered the ricotta agnolotti with maitake and alderwood shiitake mushrooms, bear garlic and Parmesan. He says his sous chef is “an amazing pasta maker” and the dish had been a bestseller in the past 10 days. Hear that? Order pasta.there are a number of wineries literally on the other side of the Fraser River. But they’re an intriguing selection and well-priced, so let’s not quibble. The listwill be moving to half B.C. and half international wines.
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