Regional foods can contain multitudes of memories

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Regional foods can contain multitudes of memories
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What makes a regional dish last? If a Maid-Rite sandwich were merely a disintegrating, suboptimal burger, Iowans would have long stopped eating them

Save time by listening to our audio articles as you multitaskMike Brown, the restaurant’s proprietor since last year, proudly notes that he cuts the beef fresh every day, adding nothing, not even salt. To non-Iowans, the sandwich can seem a perplexingly austere creation. It offers neither the compact, car-friendly convenience of a burger—the meat in a Maid-Rite, being loose, tends to spill out—nor the saucy comfort of a Sloppy Joe.

Asked why the Maid-Rite has not found a wider market, Mr Brown says “the right person” hasn’t come along to champion it. That may not be the whole story; the sandwich is probably too bland and beefy for an increasingly multicultural America. But as a general comment on regional foods that are handed down through generations of locals, his rationale stands.

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