After a three-year hiatus, rag_bone returned to NYFW with an experimental runway show that fused fashion, music and technology.
Friday kicked off not only the official start of New York Fashion Week, but also Rag & Bone’s return to the runway after a three-year hiatus. With a show he called Contrasts & Perspectives, Marcus Wainwright aimed to challenge the status quo — the designer has many a time explained his rationale for leaving the traditional runway format, citing “the boredom that comes from just watching them walk down.
After years of creating various seasonal films and photography, Wainwright looked to the robotic arm to help change perspectives and experience photography in a different way. Throughout the show, footage from a camera connected to the robotic arm was streamed on vertical LED screens that surrounded his above-runway band, located in the center of his circular runway.
Before the runway format started, there was a performance of intertwined, moving dancers with the Brooklyn Youth Chorus, which sang to the beats of Mauro Refosco and Joey Waronker. “Inception”-esque camera movements spun on screen as models emerged and strutted around the band, combining elements and mediums Wainwright has used over the past decade into his new experience.In terms of fashion, it was business as usual, but that was the point.
“The takeaway is I wanted people to understand that it wasn’t about, ‘Oh, this is the theme of the season,’ it was, “This is Rag & Bone,” Wainwright said backstage post-show. “This is f–king downtown New York cool. It is whatever you want it to be.”
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