Phipps Spring 2024 Menswear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Phipps is a popular name in America. “A funny thing we’ve discovered, which is something new to me being back in the US, is that Phipps is a very common name here,” said Spencer Phipps on a call from Los Angeles, where he relocated from Paris. “There’s a strip club, there’s a mall, there’s a grocery store, a radiology center,” named Phipps, according to the designer’s research. There’s even three separate North American lakes with the designer’s last name.
Luckily for Phipps, the man, and for Phipps, the brand, there doesn’t seem to be another fashion label by the same name. The designer leveraged this discovery in his spring 2024 collection, morphing his logo into race car patches that looked less Formula 1 than NASCAR—“the down market version” he joked.
This visual interpretation of his name served as a solid base for the new collection. “It’s all very character based, and just weird American people,” he said of his starting point, explaining he was after the “countercultural ruggedness” found in workwear, late ’90s L.L. Bean and Abercrombie, Carhartt, and souvenir shop clothes. The Phipps twist was the sense of humor he brought to his plaids, denim, and camos.
There was also a slight nod of kink—gay kink. “He knows what Tom of Finland is,” said Phipps of his customer. That came across most clearly in the handsome strangeness—and sexiness—of a pair of vintage leather chaps hybridized with jeans. Where does Phipps find old chaps? “I have my weird places to get them,” he explained. “No one really wants old chaps, they just sit there.”
Phipps has switched his business to a see-now, buy-now structure. “This model is more in line with this digital-first intimacy that you get from online stuff,” he said. As of late last year, the designer started putting himself front and center in his collection imagery, posting videos on Instagram dressing up in the classic “GRWM” style. The positive feedback was instantaneous, he explained.
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