From the Magazine: Restaurants matter for reasons more than dinner. The Post’s food critic, TomSietsema, weighs in on what we’re in danger of losing.
in Ivy City, it was sad to be greeted by a bottle of Purell and bags of food on a long table, in a hushed dining room where most of the furniture had been pushed to the sides. It’s a luxury to still be eating meals from area restaurants, but even the best takeout is less when you subtract “Good evening” and a table with your name on it — some of the many fillips that make me grateful for restaurants and the people who animate them.
Restaurants are also big business. Before the pandemic cost so many of them their jobs, more than 15 million people were employed in the food service industry, about 10 percent of the private sector, according to the National Restaurant Association, which earlier this year forecast sales of nearly $900 billion.
LEFT: Christina Nguyen owns the hipster Vietnamese restaurant Hai Hai in Minneapolis. RIGHT: “It’s human nature to be together and forget about what’s happening in the outside world,” says chef Thomas Keller, whose empire includes Per Se in New York. Life is smaller and less colorful without restaurants — more Kansas than Oz. I miss their luscious chaos.
. He says the road to recovery from what he calls “an 8-magnitude earthquake” starts with “clear and consistent guidance from both government and safety officials.”said 75 percent of U.S. restaurants could disappear, a figure the television personality based on his tenure in the business and comments by the CEO of a fast-casual corporation he declined to name.
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