Grab a Mexican hamburger today.
Brace yourselves, folks: underneath that Syracuse Orangeman-hued goop lies the structure of a burrito—a flour tortilla containing refried beans, your choice of meat, and a grilled hamburger patty, almost extant in shape. This version is smothered, which means Colorado's classic take on green chile drowns the burrito burger with its viscous, spicy glory.
I've had puffy tacos in San Antonio, glorious bowls of the green in Albuquerque, the Mexican hot dog of El Paso, and gargantuan Mission burritos in San Francisco, but the Mexican hamburger—found only in Denver, much to the surprise of the Mile High City's residents, who always thought their dish, like the Broncos, had a national reach—is the dish that best personifies the Mexican-American experience. The tortilla is wholly indigenous; its flour rendition, the legacy of Spain.
Let the Baylessistas scream—this is a dish as Mexican as the Templo Mayor, as American as the Washington Monument, as Chicano as SanTana. And few dishes have as juicy a back story: its most-famous seller is Chubby's, a legendary chain run by matriarch Stella Cordova until she was nearing the century mark.
Ah, Mexicans, always fighting among ourselves—but there you have it, folks: the Mexican hamburger, the meal of mestizaje at its tastiest.still serves Denver's best Mexican hamburger...even if it's doing so from a much tidier building that occupies what had been the parking lot.KEEP WESTWORD FREE..., it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way.
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