Four places to find amazing pastries in L.A.
in Row DTLA; it’s a true counter service bakery-cafe. Every table was filled on Sunday; the line grew longer as the clock inched toward noon.
I’ll never resist Tartine’s signature morning bun, tart-sweet with orange and over the top with cinnamon sugar, but if I have to make caloric choices I’ll lean toward dishes made with their peerless bread. A light breakfast: fig tartine spread with almond butter, honey and olive oil, in the right proportions of salty and sweet. More in the vein of lunch: the righteous “BLTA” sandwich with fried bologna, lettuce, tomato and avocado on country bread.
I’ll frame the question by looking back. The dining public in Los Angeles and the nation really dug in on universally comforting foods this decade: tacos, pastas, pizzas, burgers, sushi, noodles in every form, roasted beets, avocado on everything. It was wonderful to see an appreciation ofcome to light. French returned to the spotlight, less fusty than our dining forebears remember: lighter, punchier, accompanied by wilder wine lists.
I spent nearly five years of this decade roaming the country, eating in every corner of it, and I think the 2010s will go down as a period when thinking about “trends” in terms of emerging cuisines became redundant, or driven by restaurant groups looking for fresh angles to spur interest in their brand. The “flavor trends” that most stand out exemplify individualism these days.
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