My Thali: Ottawa chef Joe Thottungal's meals of many parts

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My Thali: Ottawa chef Joe Thottungal's meals of many parts
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In his second cookbook, the owner of Coconut Lagoon shares dishes from his home kitchen. Learn how to make south Indian recipes like vada.

eopened a reimagined restaurant

The pandemic lull allowed Thottungal the space to rethink his priorities. It also gave him more time to cook at home with his wife, Suma, and their children, Marieann, Mathew and Michael. The dishes they made together formed the basis forPhoto by Figure 1 Publishing Suma revisited old recipes from her grandmother, including pickles and spice blends, which are featured alongside new discoveries. A roasted beet salad, for example, arose when Suma’s mother was visiting. “Roasting is not an Indian thing,” Thottungal writes, but it gave his mother-in-law’s favourite beet salad an even deeper flavour.

The shift of perspective from restaurant cooking to home cooking was a natural one, Thottungal says. He highlights everyday south Indian dishes, such as the oats puttu he eats for breakfast most mornings, staples such as sambar powder, an aromatic blend of toasted spices and pulses used to make the stew of the same name, a range of soothing raitas, including charred corn, cucumber-tomato and mango, and one of the Kerala snacks that “fills heart,” plantain chips.

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