My mother's mushroom cheese bread will aways be my past, present, and future.
I’m reflecting on how it’s different than Dubuque, Iowa, where I grew up. But I’m also doing a lot of thinking on how New York City has changed me.
It’s because of what was at stake. Iowa kitchens are bigger than New York kitchens; the expectation was that everyone cooked. But more than that, in Iowa, recipes were currency. I wish the recipe my mom became lauded for came from that cookbook. But it’s from a church cookbook from my Aunt Kathy’s parish in Barrington, Illinois . It’s for mushroom cheese bread. Every time my mom made it, people asked her for the recipe. She’d copy it down for them on a lined notecard, and though I never detected smugness, she knew the power the recipe held.
No matter what we chose as our main, mushroom cheese bread was always on the menu. Despite how it left your hands greasy from butter and planted poppy seeds in between every tooth, something about it felt elegant. What went missing is the core of how I once approached dinner parties: to focus not just on how good something tastes, but on how good something has always tasted—to bring whomever I was feeding back home with me.
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