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Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
In 2021’s “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion,” Bolton set about creating an emotive language for U.S. fashion design; in “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” he employs William Hogarth’s 19th-century treatiseto assign forms to the designer’s signature dichotomies; the push and pull , the curator says, between Lagerfeld’s “Teutonic/German side and the French side”—his head and heart, in other words.
The exhibition illuminates the recurring preoccupations of the designer across all the brands he worked for; it closes with a section called The Satirical Line, in which Lagerfeld’s sense of humor is addressed along with his persona. The designer’s iconic black-and-white guise was a shield as much as a style. “I don’t believe you can separate the man from the work,” notes Bolton, “but who was that man?” There are answers to be found at The Met, but they are, appropriately, sketchy.
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