The rise of a brilliant Burgundy maestro.
As can be the way, as quickly as Lachaux has become famous, so too have his detractors multiplied, particularly in the sometimes gossipy and competitive landscape of Burgundy, where Lachaux has created enemies and those who shake their head in disapproval in a way that only the French know how. There are some who look forward to what they see as his inevitable downfall. There are others who pray it comes quickly.
After schooling in nearby Nuits-Saint-Georges, Charles did his BTS in Viticulture and Oenology at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, followed by a Bachelor of Commerce at INSEEC Business School in Bordeaux. Interning at a London wine merchant in 2010, he then returned to Burgundy to work at Domaine Tollot-Beaut and Domaine Armand Rousseau under the tutelage of Eric Rousseau.
Other vineyard innovations followed. In 2019, he moved to a new pruning method developed with his vineyard manager which they call “The Arnoux-Lachaux Gobelet”, which allows for less buds per vine and lower yields, while avoiding further mutilating the vines . He has also been the first-mover in the Côte d’Or to introduce sheep in the vineyards from 2021: the sheep eat the grass and provide natural fertilization.
Ensuring he has the requisite number of ceramic fermentation vessels is expensive, added to the fact that the manufacturer has capacity to produce only three vessels per month. In short, what Charles has chosen to do has not only been extremely risky—both financially and in terms of going against conventional wisdom—it is unlikely to be adopted by many of his fellow vignerons, however spectacular the results.
“The Golden Vines Award made big talk in Burgundy; now, wherever people go to taste in the Côte d’Or, they hear my name, for good or for bad.” Some vignerons are fed up with hearing the question, “Do you make your wines like Charles Lachaux?” The Liv-Ex Power 100 Rankings 2022 report stated: “[Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux is] this year’s second most powerful label… the estate has been one of the region’s rising stars for a few years now, but demand exploded in 2021-2022. Its average price performance was 487.2 percent but certain wines rose more than 1,000 percent.” Even Liv-ex remarked—as if influenced by Charles’s doubters—“It is possible that it is a brand that has already grown too hot for some to countenance buying.
Although Charles is keen to cater to long-time customers, he is also determined to ensure he has more control over where the wines end up. “Just like with my viticulture and viniculture, I want to be as precise in my marketing and distribution. Why are so many middlemen taking a cut each time before it gets to the end customer? I want to have direct contact with my end consumers.
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