Meet Alphonse Maitrepierre, burgeoning Paris designer and former assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier.
is only 24 years old. His résumé reads like that of a more-established fashion designer, having worked as a stylist, assistant, and consultant in the studios of Acne, Chanel, and Jean Paul Gaultier after graduating from La Cambre in 2016. He’s also acted in a couple of independent French films and dabbled in costume design.
Maitrepierre launched his namesake label late last year. His clothes are crafty—“somewhere,” as he puts it, “between prêt-à-porter and couture.” His Fall 2019 collection includes pieces like a gold satin bubble-hem skirt and extra-wide-leg pants, a marble-patterned fuzzy knit cropped jacket, and a mixed-print asymmetric slip dress with mismatched bead straps, all of which were inspired by the Beale women from.
The notion of upcycling is important to Maitrepierre; he works with discarded leather, silk, and lace from French luxury goods houses. He also finds it important to collaborate with different artisans in Paris—sculptors for his quirky shoes and sunglasses, and printmakers and illustrators for his whimsical prints. Gaultier’s leather-maker is helping him with his geometric-shaped bags.
Inside his small Montmartre atelier, Maitrepierre can be found hand-knitting pants or experimenting with materials like plastic and plexiglass. He’s currently working on his Spring 2020 collection, which he plans to show during Paris Fashion Week. “I did a lot of research studying the archives of Balmain, Balenciaga, and Carven,” Maitrepierre says. “Specifically, I looked to the 1940s and 1950s, when the designers at these houses would drape directly on the model.
Discussing his work, he notes, “There is always contrast. It’s the push-pull of something very old school and vintage and something new, digital, and very modern. I love when nothing is fixed.”
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