See every look from Maria McManus's pre-fall 2023 collection:
, the 1964 Michelangelo Antonioni movie that was his first in color. “It is stunningly beautiful,” McManus recalls, but it also addresses themes that the designer deals with in her work every day. “It’s that time in the 1960s in Italy when it’s [being] industrialized, and everybody is wearing their beautiful suits, and trying to progress and earn money thinking it’s all wonderful.
Despite the bleak outlook of the film, the resulting collection was self-assured and—dare we say—optimistic, characterized by a color palette of peony pink grounded by a rich chocolate brown. She had found a poster for the movie where a swatch of abstract pink dominates the foreground with Monica Vitti and another actor standing in the back. “Most of the imagery you find for the movie is red, [but from this poster] we took the.
Suiting is one of the places where McManus shines, and this season, a white jacket cut from Japanese FSC-certified viscose, was slouchy, with a bit of an exaggerated shoulder—she added a button underneath the lapel to allow it to be worn “closed,” which created an interesting asymmetric silhouette. Basic t-shirts are now made from 80% recycled materials. “Ideally the entire collection would be made from fabrics like this,” she said.
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