See every look from Mame Kurogouchi's fall 2022 collection:
It’s not often you hear of a designer rubbing her cheek against moss as a way to inform textures in a new collection. Maiko Kurogouchi did just that for her fall 2022 collection, titled Land. While, yes, each season she traverses Japan and the past for references, instead of appropriating them in the way other designers bop from reference to reference, time period to time period, she seems to summon the past and the natural world closer to her with each new collection.
When she brought this back to her design team, they worked on three major through-lines. Firstly, the landscape. Taking muddy autumnal colors like rust, stone, evergreen, and charcoal, Kurogouchi created textural fabrics that flutter between the colors. Tiny moss embroideries grow from the collars of some dresses; wool pieces are brushed to evoke the exact feeling of that moss on the designer’s cheek.
Then came Kurogouchi’s reverence for her ancestors and the history of her beloved country. She cast her eye all the way back to 14,000 B.C.E., Japan’s Jomon period, when humans adorned pottery with swirling patterns made by pressing ropes and cords on the clay. She found a similarity in her own rope work introduced in fall 2020, when she enlisted a shoelace factory to make embroidered lace out of shoelaces to a hefty, magical effect.
Finally, she developed a swirling jacquard traditional to Japan that evokes both the landscape and the Jomon pottery, a soft but structured fabric cut into jackets and suiting. Well, not exactly. Kurogouchi is never finished resurrecting the spirits of Japanese culture. Two seasons ago, she embarked on a new journey with a traditional pleating studio; now she has convinced them to make a black dress from hundreds of bisecting, curvilinear pleats.
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