'The attitude is looser; the shapes weirder and more daring, without a doubt. But I would argue that the main difference is that the ideas are more in touch with contemporary values, especially newer notions of gender and human beauty,' writes CathyHoryn
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Marc Jacobs Two summers ago, as New York and other cities were emerging from lockdowns, I spoke to a dozen leading designers about how they thought the fashion industry should go forward after the pandemic. Many said that it couldn’t go back to the ways things were — that is, the colossal sense of waste arising from too many collections, including the newer practice of flying guests halfway around the world to see a show in an exotic locale.
And why not? He is designing some of the most interesting clothes in the most rarified modern fabrics — including paper, organza-backed lambskin, and plaster-coated denim — for a store that has a long reach into the discerning world. It’s hardly a new kind of relationship; stores have been doing exclusives with designers since the early 1900s. And no, it’s not going to make anyone rich.
Another thing that struck me about the show was that in his press notes Jacobs had printed a list of “materials” and “shapes” . The fact that so many of the materials sounded industrial was intriguing. The glass was crystal discs bonded to jersey for a side-tied tunic over sharp wide-legged denim trousers, while the paper was Tyvek — the house-wrap material — used for a full, bubbly evening skirt and shown with a sweatshirt bunched around the shoulders and turned into a hood.
On the street in New York, lingerie is already a nonstarter. On my way into the library, I saw a young woman dressed in tight low-rise pants and a long-line black bra with sheer panels. Eyeballs heading west on 42nd Street scoured her look, I noticed, but could anyone have been shocked? Bra girl was soon overtaken by a drag queen in sequins, then a skinny girl in low-slung elephant bells and a white tank top.
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