Last: Unhappy hour – the quest for low-alcohol wines

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Last: Unhappy hour – the quest for low-alcohol wines
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Geoff Last wine column on low\u002Dalcohol wines

I’ve tried some of the alcohol-free wines that are now available, and while they’re considerably better than they used to be, it’s safe to say that many wine lovers, me included, would simply opt out rather than drink those. Alcohol is a vector for flavour and body in wine, which brings me to the point of this column, the joy of low-alcohol wines. To start, white wines are typically lower in alcohol because white grapes ripen sooner, and less ripeness means less alcohol.

Natural wines also tend to be lower in alcohol for one simple reason: they don’t add sugar. In many wine regions, the addition of sugar is permitted, initially as a tool to balance the wine in cooler vintages where the grapes did not ripen fully. Ironically, this process – known as chaptalization – is not permitted in California, a wine region that produces so-called dry wines with 16 to 19 grams of residual sugar per litre .

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