When Kenzo Takada opened his first boutique in Paris in 1970 \u2013 after moving from Japan to the French capital \u2013 he chose Galerie Vivienne, one of the city\u2019s most iconic 19th-century covered arcades, as its location. The boutique ushered in a liberated, Eastern-inflected exuberance to the conservative echelons of...
For his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
When Kenzo Takada opened his first boutique in Paris in 1970 – after moving from Japan to the French capital – he chose Galerie Vivienne, one of the city’s most iconic 19th-century covered arcades, as its location. The boutique ushered in a liberated, Eastern-inflected exuberance to the conservative echelons of French fashion – then more associated with gilded Place Vendôme salons – that was brimming with effusive floral prints, unrestrictive kimono shapes and a colour wheel of materials.
Here, focus was placed on the clothing, as guests – including Kanye West, fellow Billionaire Boys Club co-founder Pharrell Williams and Tyler, the Creator – sat on simple foldable wooden chairs that lined the Galerie Vivienne arcade.
Think pinstripe suits layered with flat kimono-shape wool jackets inspired by the uniforms of Japanese potters, colourful American college knitted vests paired with high-waisted trousers and chunky lion’s head belts, pansy-print bowling shirts styled with full skirts, padded motocross gloves and chunky Chelsea boots, and dark or stonewash Japanese denim all-in-ones that resembled utilitarian overalls layered with shirts.
Where Kenzo Takada forged his first pathway into French fashion, so Nigo – whose A/W 2022 Kenzo show was his catwalk first – traced out the future of the label. It’s bright, bold, decade-spanning, and rooted in reality. §
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