Jonathan Gold picks 5 places for rainy-day pho

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Jonathan Gold picks 5 places for rainy-day pho
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Is there anything more annoying than the friend who corrects your pronunciation of pho, insisting that you call the Vietnamese beef noodle soup 'fuh' instead of 'foe' – that girl who rolls her eyes at the idea of a restaurant called '9021Pho?'

, a minimalist soup highlighted by a sprinkling of fresh ginger and a largish hunk of soft, bloody filet mignon hacked up like a guy who had lost a razor fight.is pretty different from jazzy, amped-up Saigon pho – it’s quieter, less dependent on the flavors of caramelization, and uncluttered by the half-dozen meats common in southern-style pho.

Golden Deli’s pho may suffer from thin broth, slightly gummy noodles and enough sodium to cause hypertension in a boa constrictor, but it is the pho that you dream of when you are marooned in gastronomic wastelands like Tokyo or Rome.Speaking of pho districts, one must take into account the weird concentration of Vietnamese noodle shops in South El Monte, a small town with almost no Vietnamese residents but with a concentration of pho shops unprecedented even in Little Saigon.

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