Giant hats, polka dots and reams of raffia added a couture flair to Jacquemus' mega spring show.
A black square with a cheeky joke on the Jacquemus Instagram account? A black dress to open his spring 2023 fashion show?, almost synonymous with beige, white and Mediterranean blue, seems in a mood to try new things. A midcentury couture spirit was woven through his latest see now, buy now collection, seen in the dramatic headwear and fluffy embellishments, while the menswear felt more playful and gender-fluid.
Pamela Anderson, Christine Quinn, Sophie Marceau and Vincent Cassel watched models file out around a large sheer curtain as straw rained down on their raffia-fringed outfits, their giant sun hats and their miniscule Bambini handbags, big enough for a credit card and Tic Tacs. For the finale, the curtains were lifted to reveal all the models standing on wooden plinths amid enough straw to fill 10 barns.
“The idea of something so summery, and almost making fun of ourselves with the hats too big,” the designer said backstage, explaining that a raffia technique developed with embroidery house Lesage became the main leitmotif and a tongue-in-cheek way of evoking fur. “We wanted something super elegant.”
The designer, who is drawing the biggest lines on Avenue Montaigne with his Paris pop-up, said he plans to open summer locations in those Italian resort towns in 2023. He employs 250 people and the company has grown so fast that he’s outgrown his three buildings and will decamp to “massive” new headquarters in the 8th arrondissement next September.
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