.bellahadid at Jacquemus. Simon Porte Jacquemus said he approached the coed collection as if it were his last.
“It’s the first time in my life that I have designed a collection as if it were my last,” said Simon Porte Jacquemus, standing in front of a mood board awash in neutral tones.
Those who braved the journey on day 45 of a nationwide French transport strike had to wait in the cold for 20 minutes or more. Once admitted, they walked through the cavernous concert venue in pitch darkness before taking their seat around a large white square. “I didn’t want any artifice,” Jacquemus explained.Laetitia Casta opened the show, marking her first runway appearance in almost a decade. She headed an all-star cast including Bella and Gigi Hadid, Doutzen Kroes and Jill Kortleve.
Casta wore a version of it paired with an off-the-shoulder buttoned cardigan that barely clung to her breasts. Even stripped of its usual sun-drenched palette, this was a Mediterranean collection that showed plenty of skin. There were variations on his signature strappy dresses and body-hugging knits, as well as short shorts and minidresses worn with thigh-high boots, some topped with oversize his-‘n’-hers jackets or coats.
Jacquemus said he was aiming for “designs that last” — a sentiment somewhat negated by the flood of new bags on display. They included a horizontal version of the bestselling Chiquito, as well as a dedicated men’s Chiquito with a sport strap.
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